Vat
& Tonsure - (this
piece was never published)
911 SW Taylor Portland, OR 97205-2502
I have
lived in Portland long enough to fondly remember the first
incarnation of the Vat and Tonsure. I was never a devotee
of the place, but I did enjoy the look and feel of the
restaurant. To be considered a regular by the owner and
staff was quite an accomplishment, one bestowed upon
knowledgeable wine enthusiasts, creatives and restaurant
people from around the city who spent their evenings in
deep discussions over great bottles of wine in a unique
little restaurant. The original Vat benefited from being in
a beautiful and unique old building in the heart of
downtown that was displaced by what is now called the Fox
Tower. There was never sign to tell you the name of the
restaurant and the attitude and inefficiencies of the
waiters were infamous. So were the game hens and the wine
list and the casual air that offered a comfortable place to
hang out and not be bothered if you occupied a table or
barstool for the entire night.
Here we are in a new century and to the surprise and
excitement of many, The Vat and Tonsure has reappeared. The
new incarnation has opened not too far from their original
location in a storefront on SW Taylor Street. The old time
regulars will be thrilled that the game hen is still on the
menu and is still fantastic. During a recent visit I swear
that every person in the place was eating the same dish.
They have done a great job replicating the design of the
original, with the bar and booths and many of the
decorations exactly the same. They have also elected to
hold onto many of the unique aspects of their original
persona that may not serve them well in the new economy.
Portland isn't the same restaurant town it used to be. The
number of restaurants that offer great cuisine with good
service and interesting wine lists are not the rarity they
used to be.
Some of the shortcomings will no doubt smooth out after
they have been open longer, like running out of two of the
more interesting appetizers before 7:00. But, the idea that
you don't have to have a sign on your door to tell people
where you are is just bad business. A friend and I ended up
calling information for the address after walking past the
front door several times. After being ignored by the wait
staff while the restaurant was less than half full, we sat
ourselves, helped ourselves to menus and had to ask for
utensils, bread and water. Of the two waiters, one was very
nice when we could get his attention, he was the saving
grace of the experience, the other waiter did not attempt
hide his disdain or his overt effort to ignore us. I admit
that when I first moved to Portland over 10 years ago, I
was puzzled and tickled by the fact that so many
restaurants would actually take a personal check, however,
times have changed and it is an inconvenience to your
clientele to not take credit cards. When we asked where we
could find the closest cash machine the non-communicative
waiter simply rolled his eyes and shrugged his shoulders
and walked away. Astonishingly, when we returned later, no
one remembered that we hadn’t paid, nor could they
figure out what to charge us.
It has been explained to me that maybe I just don't get
what the Vat is all about. The true loyalists are very
protective of this restaurant and bristle if the quality or
service, or any other aspect of the restaurant is
challenged. They hope for the survival of not only the
restaurant, but their memories of what it once was. But,
like most memories, they are likely better left in the
past.