Vat & Tonsure - (this piece was never published)
911 SW Taylor Portland, OR 97205-2502

I have lived in Portland long enough to fondly remember the first incarnation of the Vat and Tonsure. I was never a devotee of the place, but I did enjoy the look and feel of the restaurant. To be considered a regular by the owner and staff was quite an accomplishment, one bestowed upon knowledgeable wine enthusiasts, creatives and restaurant people from around the city who spent their evenings in deep discussions over great bottles of wine in a unique little restaurant. The original Vat benefited from being in a beautiful and unique old building in the heart of downtown that was displaced by what is now called the Fox Tower. There was never sign to tell you the name of the restaurant and the attitude and inefficiencies of the waiters were infamous. So were the game hens and the wine list and the casual air that offered a comfortable place to hang out and not be bothered if you occupied a table or barstool for the entire night.

Here we are in a new century and to the surprise and excitement of many, The Vat and Tonsure has reappeared. The new incarnation has opened not too far from their original location in a storefront on SW Taylor Street. The old time regulars will be thrilled that the game hen is still on the menu and is still fantastic. During a recent visit I swear that every person in the place was eating the same dish. They have done a great job replicating the design of the original, with the bar and booths and many of the decorations exactly the same. They have also elected to hold onto many of the unique aspects of their original persona that may not serve them well in the new economy. Portland isn't the same restaurant town it used to be. The number of restaurants that offer great cuisine with good service and interesting wine lists are not the rarity they used to be.

Some of the shortcomings will no doubt smooth out after they have been open longer, like running out of two of the more interesting appetizers before 7:00. But, the idea that you don't have to have a sign on your door to tell people where you are is just bad business. A friend and I ended up calling information for the address after walking past the front door several times. After being ignored by the wait staff while the restaurant was less than half full, we sat ourselves, helped ourselves to menus and had to ask for utensils, bread and water. Of the two waiters, one was very nice when we could get his attention, he was the saving grace of the experience, the other waiter did not attempt hide his disdain or his overt effort to ignore us. I admit that when I first moved to Portland over 10 years ago, I was puzzled and tickled by the fact that so many restaurants would actually take a personal check, however, times have changed and it is an inconvenience to your clientele to not take credit cards. When we asked where we could find the closest cash machine the non-communicative waiter simply rolled his eyes and shrugged his shoulders and walked away. Astonishingly, when we returned later, no one remembered that we hadn’t paid, nor could they figure out what to charge us.

It has been explained to me that maybe I just don't get what the Vat is all about. The true loyalists are very protective of this restaurant and bristle if the quality or service, or any other aspect of the restaurant is challenged. They hope for the survival of not only the restaurant, but their memories of what it once was. But, like most memories, they are likely better left in the past.