Lauro Kitchen lights up Division
Copyright Donna Macdonald

A quiet love affair has been going on since the middle of July between Lauro Kitchen and the Richmond Neighborhood around SE Division and 34th Street.

Without any of the normal fanfare Chef David Machado quietly opened his newest restaurant for his neighbors before the rest of the city found out and crashed the party. By all accounts this love affair goes way beyond the typical restaurant-opening fling, there is a real commitment here and it goes both ways. The neighbors were so hungry for a restaurant they could walk to that had great food, beautiful decor and a comfortable bar that they have kept the tables full since the day Lauro Kitchen opened.

The decor gives the impression of a cool San Francisco see and be seen kind of place with clean lines and cool colors. Upon closer inspection the demographics of the patrons tell a very different story. There is a wonderful mix of young professionals and first time parents along side Baby Boomers who don't seem to mind the small kid at the next table. The clientele moves from families to a younger and hipper crowd as the night goes on. Daren Hamilton and Julie Machado, David's wife and partner manage the flow of activity at the front of the restaurant with a casual and friendly hand while David Machado keeps his eye on the restaurant from the line of the open kitchen. Lauro Kitchen doesn't take reservations but the tables turn pretty quickly. Expect a wait on Friday and Saturday nights at the peak dining hours. Many patrons start their meal at the bar and migrate to the restaurant when a table opens up. Somehow the flow seems to work without long waits.

Machado is no stranger to developing and opening restaurants. In 1991 he put Pazzo on the map and in 1998 he was lured away from the kitchen to become the Vice President of Restaurants for the Heathman Management Group. His first assignment was to develop the restaurant Southpark and Vancouver's Hudsons Restaurant. Occasionally he was able to put items on the menu from the country of his heratige, not Italy as some think, but Portugal. More specifically the Azores Islands.

The Azores are tiny fertile islands located 600 miles off the west coast of Portugal. They are in the middle of the ocean and have rich historical significance and are still a stopping off point for boat traffic, and like most Mediterranean port towns, the impact on the cuisine is a cross section of ingredients from all over the world.

Identifying his restaurant as a Mediterranean Kitchen Machado is keeping his options opened to allow him to offer fare from across the entire region like Goat cheese Stuffed Chicken Breast with Quince Sauce from Spain and the bright and clean flavors of the Chicken Tagine with Cous Cous from Morocco. The Greek Lamb Kebobs with Tzatziki Sauce is everything it should be while the use of the domed cataplana pans for the preparation of the Mussels and Chourico - a smoky pork Portuguese sausage - and the very authentic Pork and Clams Alentejo, the flavors are stewed together and steaming upon arrival.

The menu is approachable and affordable and is creative enough to leave you planning what you are going to eat the next time you visit, and not breaking the bank to do it. With appetizers costing about $6.00 and entrees are an average of $14.00 with a list of other options like a Cheeseburger with Pomme Frites, 3 wonderful pizzas to choose from and a few pasta options, all about $9.00. The wine list is affordable with a very drinkable $18.00 carafe served in an authentic Portuguese wine pitcher is a very popular item. Local wine consultant Dave Holstrom and self titled Guy du Vin finds good wines that are very good values and match the menu perfectly.

The Cracked Wheat Salad under the Grilled Salmon and Hazelnut Tarator Sauce is unique and satisfying. The salad is served cold with a delicious seasoning of pomegranate paste and lemon juice which offers a nice balance to the richness of the Salmon. The Tarator sauce has a Turkish history of pounded bread, vinegar and hazelnuts. The Gazpacho Cocktail with Fresh Bay Shrimp is at it's seasonal best. The Pinchos Morunos appetizer of marinated and grilled Spicy Chicken Kebobs is tender and more flavorful than spicy. However, the Portuguese Piri Piri Sauce that accompanies the Crispy Calamari is a garlic lovers dream. Several salad options round out the menu and the Portland necessity the traditional Flat Iron Steak doesn't disappoint with it's Port reduction giving it it's Mediterranean touch.

One appealing aspect about Lauro Kitchen's approach is that simple dishes are kept simple, like the Ricotta Ravioli with Roasted Tomato sauce and the Coppa, Roasted Garlic and Green Olive Pizza. While other dishes may have complex spices and sauces that set them apart, these dishes are all about the ingredients.

Lee Posey's simple and delicious desserts have been extremely popular. The rich and creamy Pudim Flan has been a popular item likely to be a regular item on the menu. The seasonal offering is a Zabaione with Local berries and chocolate lovers will not be disappointed by the Chocolate Almond Gateau with Crème Basque. A regularly changing Cheese Plate is worth a try, Machado has found producers of unique cheeses not found at the local market. Recently they served a pungent cheddar like Sao Jorge cheese with a lively Tomato Jam.

It came as a surprise to some that David Machado chose to open Lauro Kitchen outside of the downtown corridor. However, Machado really wanted to run a neighborhood restaurant and attract regular customers from the surrounding area. The comment cards have been somewhat akin to fan mail that tell the whole story "Incredible meal - thank you for opening and thank you for increasing my property values!".





Copyright Donna Macdonald


FACT BAR:
WHERE: 3377 SE Division Street
(503)239-7000
HOURS: 5:00-10:00 Tuesday - Thursday
5:00-11:00 Friday - Saturday
PRICES: Appetizers $5.00 - $8.00
Entrees $13.00 - $15.00
Desserts $5.00
Wine List - Affordable
BEST BETS: Pinchos Morunos, Salmon with Cracked Wheat Salad, Chicken Tagine
MORE: Friendly comfortable atmosphere with an interesting and approachable menu.