Lauro
Kitchen lights up Division
Copyright Donna Macdonald
A quiet
love affair has been going on since the middle of July
between Lauro Kitchen and the Richmond Neighborhood around
SE Division and 34th
Street.
Without any of the normal fanfare Chef David Machado
quietly opened his newest restaurant for his neighbors
before the rest of the city found out and crashed the
party. By all accounts this love affair goes way beyond the
typical restaurant-opening fling, there is a real
commitment here and it goes both ways. The neighbors were
so hungry for a restaurant they could walk to that had
great food, beautiful decor and a comfortable bar that they
have kept the tables full since the day Lauro Kitchen
opened.
The decor gives the impression of a cool San Francisco see
and be seen kind of place with clean lines and cool colors.
Upon closer inspection the demographics of the patrons tell
a very different story. There is a wonderful mix of young
professionals and first time parents along side Baby
Boomers who don't seem to mind the small kid at the next
table. The clientele moves from families to a younger and
hipper crowd as the night goes on. Daren Hamilton and Julie
Machado, David's wife and partner manage the flow of
activity at the front of the restaurant with a casual and
friendly hand while David Machado keeps his eye on the
restaurant from the line of the open kitchen. Lauro Kitchen
doesn't take reservations but the tables turn pretty
quickly. Expect a wait on Friday and Saturday nights at the
peak dining hours. Many patrons start their meal at the bar
and migrate to the restaurant when a table opens up.
Somehow the flow seems to work without long waits.
Machado is no stranger to developing and opening
restaurants. In 1991 he put Pazzo on the map and in 1998 he
was lured away from the kitchen to become the Vice
President of Restaurants for the Heathman Management Group.
His first assignment was to develop the restaurant
Southpark and Vancouver's Hudsons Restaurant. Occasionally
he was able to put items on the menu from the country of
his heratige, not Italy as some think, but Portugal. More
specifically the Azores Islands.
The Azores are tiny fertile islands located 600 miles off
the west coast of Portugal. They are in the middle of the
ocean and have rich historical significance and are still a
stopping off point for boat traffic, and like most
Mediterranean port towns, the impact on the cuisine is a
cross section of ingredients from all over the world.
Identifying his restaurant as a Mediterranean Kitchen
Machado is keeping his options opened to allow him to offer
fare from across the entire region like Goat cheese Stuffed
Chicken Breast with Quince Sauce from Spain and the bright
and clean flavors of the Chicken Tagine with Cous Cous from
Morocco. The Greek Lamb Kebobs with Tzatziki Sauce is
everything it should be while the use of the domed
cataplana pans for the preparation of the Mussels and
Chourico - a smoky pork Portuguese sausage - and the very
authentic Pork and Clams Alentejo, the flavors are stewed
together and steaming upon arrival.
The menu is approachable and affordable and is creative
enough to leave you planning what you are going to eat the
next time you visit, and not breaking the bank to do it.
With appetizers costing about $6.00 and entrees are an
average of $14.00 with a list of other options like a
Cheeseburger with Pomme Frites, 3 wonderful pizzas to
choose from and a few pasta options, all about $9.00. The
wine list is affordable with a very drinkable $18.00 carafe
served in an authentic Portuguese wine pitcher is a very
popular item. Local wine consultant Dave Holstrom and self
titled Guy du Vin finds good wines that are very good
values and match the menu perfectly.
The Cracked Wheat Salad under the Grilled Salmon and
Hazelnut Tarator Sauce is unique and satisfying. The salad
is served cold with a delicious seasoning of pomegranate
paste and lemon juice which offers a nice balance to the
richness of the Salmon. The Tarator sauce has a Turkish
history of pounded bread, vinegar and hazelnuts. The
Gazpacho Cocktail with Fresh Bay Shrimp is at it's seasonal
best. The Pinchos Morunos appetizer of marinated and
grilled Spicy Chicken Kebobs is tender and more flavorful
than spicy. However, the Portuguese Piri Piri Sauce that
accompanies the Crispy Calamari is a garlic lovers dream.
Several salad options round out the menu and the Portland
necessity the traditional Flat Iron Steak doesn't
disappoint with it's Port reduction giving it it's
Mediterranean touch.
One appealing aspect about Lauro Kitchen's approach is that
simple dishes are kept simple, like the Ricotta Ravioli
with Roasted Tomato sauce and the Coppa, Roasted Garlic and
Green Olive Pizza. While other dishes may have complex
spices and sauces that set them apart, these dishes are all
about the ingredients.
Lee Posey's simple and delicious desserts have been
extremely popular. The rich and creamy Pudim Flan has been
a popular item likely to be a regular item on the menu. The
seasonal offering is a Zabaione with Local berries and
chocolate lovers will not be disappointed by the Chocolate
Almond Gateau with Crème Basque. A regularly changing
Cheese Plate is worth a try, Machado has found producers of
unique cheeses not found at the local market. Recently they
served a pungent cheddar like Sao Jorge cheese with a
lively Tomato Jam.
It came as a surprise to some that David Machado chose to
open Lauro Kitchen outside of the downtown corridor.
However, Machado really wanted to run a neighborhood
restaurant and attract regular customers from the
surrounding area. The comment cards have been somewhat akin
to fan mail that tell the whole story "Incredible meal -
thank you for opening and thank you for increasing my
property values!".
Copyright Donna Macdonald
FACT BAR:
WHERE: 3377 SE Division Street
(503)239-7000
HOURS: 5:00-10:00 Tuesday - Thursday
5:00-11:00 Friday - Saturday
PRICES: Appetizers $5.00 - $8.00
Entrees $13.00 - $15.00
Desserts $5.00
Wine List - Affordable
BEST BETS: Pinchos Morunos, Salmon with Cracked Wheat
Salad, Chicken Tagine
MORE: Friendly comfortable atmosphere with an interesting
and approachable menu.