The
Purple Guide
Cuisine of the Piemonte Region -
Copyright
Donna J. Macdonald
1861 was
a defining moment not only in the history of Italy, but
also in the cuisine of the Piemonte region. The
Risorgimento or reunification of Italy made a single
country out what was several smaller regions and fiefdoms
and made the city of Torino the center of the seat of power
for all of Italy. The King of Savoy whose lands extended
well into France shepherded the often contentious process
of bringing many powerful forces together most likely over
a famously long Piemontese meal. During their reign the
Savoys transformed Torino into a glamorous city attracting
chefs, architects and artists from throughout Europe.
Although the capitol of Italy was later moved to Rome the
influence on the cuisine of the region can still be felt
today with refined sauces and desserts that reflect a
sophisticated influence from nearby European cuisine.
Historically, like most of the regions of Italy, the
traditional cuisine of the Piemonte is based in the land
and what grows well and naturally. The good news in the
Piemonte Region is what grows well here is all pretty
impressive for both the home cook and the restaurants. In
the Langhe aside from growing world-class wine grapes they
also produce chestnuts, hazelnuts and mushrooms, not to
mention black and the world famous white truffles. The Po
River valley produces risotto, polenta, and grains that
feed much of Italy as well as being exported globally. The
cheese and high quality meats from the Valle Maira and
Valle Grana are appreciated throughout the country and fish
finds it’s way into the cuisine from countless rivers
flowing down from the mountains that also feed lakes
Maggiore and Orta. The soil from the entire region is
abundantly fertile so farming and fruit production are all
close to home and there is little importing done from other
regions - except Liguria. The northern valleys comprise a
network of some of the original Roman salt roads that
carried precious cargo from the Mediterranean just across
the Apennines and Maritime Alps to cities North. The
influence on the cuisine is significant throughout the
region. Towns deep in the mountains have anchovy festivals
to celebrate the multitude of dishes made with the
preserved fish from the sea. What now takes only a hour by
car was once a pilgrimage to the coast bringing wine,
cheese, cured meats and grains, and returning with dried
and preserved fish like anchovies, bacala (salted cod) and
tuna as well as capers, olives and olive oil. It's other
borders with France and Switzerland have over the years
created a cross pollination of cuisines. The Piemonte is
the home of Nutella among many other chocolate treats, it
is also acknowledged and respected for its contribution to
the evolution of chocolate by creating gianduja. In Torino,
pasticcerias display their delicious, sweet creations each
day in their windows like fine jewels.
Today it is the restaurateurs who are preserving many of
the traditional recipes that are time consuming and
difficult to prepare at home, like Tajarin – a
remarkably light, hand rolled and hand cut pasta or
Agnolotti del Plin, a small hand made ravioli that is
closed with a pinch or plin in Piemontese. Families often
go out to enjoy many of the traditional dishes rather than
take the time to prepare them at home and fortunately there
is no shortage of good restaurants to choose from.
This is a region that takes its restaurants, food and wine
seriously. The wine industry has for years attracted wine
buyers and restaurateurs as well as food aficionados. Over
the last 10 years there has been a steady increase in not
only the volume of restaurants, but the quality as well.
The region has large number of chef owned restaurants and
osterias that serve many of the traditional regional dishes
as well as new creations to satisfy a very food savvy
clientele. The wines of the region, most famously
Barbaresco and Barolo, are wines that become more
interesting when consumed with food, especially the food
from the region. It is easy to find some impressive wine
lists with affordable prices at every category of
restaurant.
The Slow Food Movement began in the town of Bra, which is
famous for it's cheese. In the1980’s the founders of
Slow Food became leaders in the conversation about the
effects of fast food on a culture, specifically with the
loss of traditional, diverse food traditions and recipes.
Today they have a global membership of over 80,000 and host
the bi-annual Terra Madre in Torino, which brings farmers,
growers and restaurants together from all over the world to
talk about what else? FOOD!