Copyright Donna J. Macdonald
Photography Copyright John Anthony Rizzo
(if you want a copy of the Italian version written by Aldo Vacca - send me an e-mail)
TERROIR is a beautiful French word that describes how a wine is the result of not only the vinifcation of grapes, but also of the environment where those grapes grow. Yes, it is soil, but also sunshine, light, climate, elevation; and then eventually pruning, agricultural practices, tradition and people. All these factors work together to create a terroir.
The grape variety and terroir together create a “vino di terriorio” where every sip the wine not only tells a story of the grape, but of the land as well. Few wine areas through the centuries have reached this almost legendary status, attracting wine lovers from throughout the world, in search of “pellegrinaggi vinicoli” or pilgrimage of wine: Barbaresco is one of these places.
The Barbaresco appellation consists of four small villages in the section of the Piedmont region called the Langhe. Uniquely situated only a one-hour drive south from the city of Turin (Torino) and an equal distance to the Mediterranean and the Western Alps. Approximately 2,500 acres of Nebbiolo grapes are grown here which produce just over three million bottles of Barbaresco. The Barbaresco wine-growing region is made up of a multitude of hills, ridges and slopes, each with a unique name, some have been renowned for centuries while others have acquired more recent fame. In the following pages you will find maps of the region and the villages and the list of the “indicazioni geografiche” (single vineyards) as defined by the Community of Barbaresco.
Barbaresco,
where we stand
Grapes have been cultivated in the hills of Barbaresco for
centuries. They were most likely introduced to this region
by the Romans as they moved north to conquer the region
known as the land of “Italian Gaul”. The
original varietals, through evolution, adapted to their
various environments and the complex viticultural diversity
of Italy and all of Europe was born. A document from 1268
found in Rivoli (near Turin) is the first known written
evidence of a grape called Nibiol (Nebbiolo) in Piedmont.
From this we can conclude that Nebbiolo is the classic
original piemontese grape. At that time Nebbiolo had a much
larger growing area than we see today. Because it can be a
difficult variety to grow, demanding the perfect soil and
exposure to the sun so it can express all of its potential
of elegance and complexity of flavours, over time it was
replaced with easier and more productive grapes. Nebbiolo
remains in only those few areas where it delivers wines of
superior quality. Barbaresco is one of those areas.
The man who is considered to be the “Father of
Barbaresco” is Domizio Cavazza. Professor Cavazza
moved to Barbaresco in 1888 when he was hired to be the
first director of the newly opened Enological School
located in Alba, which is today the oldest Enological
School in Italy. In addition to his scientific training, he
brought with him a great enthusiasm for quality wine and
better viticultural practices. He also developed an
awareness of the great potential for the wine grown in the
area surrounding the town of Barbaresco. In 1894 Professor
Cavazza founded one of the first cooperative wineries of
Italy in the castle of Barbaresco, with nine local
landowners. He decided to call the wine made from the
locally grown Nebbiolo grapes after name of the village:
Barbaresco. Thanks to his leadership the wine and the
region began to achieve fame and recognition in Italy and
Europe.
The premature death of Professor Cavazza in 1913 was a
great shock to the young wine industry that lost its mentor
and guiding force. Shortly after his death, World War I
began and caused a shift in agricultural priorities, In
fact, the years surrounding both World Wars were difficult
for the economy of the region and all of Italy. Barbaresco
did not escape these difficult times. However, wine
production did continue and in 1933 the national government
officially defined for the first time the “Zona
Classica del Barbaresco”. It was the first step to
what would become the “denominazione d’origine
controllata” (DOC) zone created in 1966 and the
”denominazione d’origine controllata e
garantita” (DOCG) in 1984.
Towards the end of the 1950s, with the slow, but steady
growth of the world economy, Barbaresco was able to once
again rise in stature thanks to a handful of visionary
people and wineries that chose to focus on the unique wine
of their own land, rather that moving to produce
“easier” wines. With the renewed fame of
Barbaresco, many more farmers became winemakers and many
more Barbaresco labels conquered the world markets and
vineyards growing this unique grape are now back again
“to rule” on these hills.
Four
small villages, fewer than 3000 people, 130 wineries and
only 2.500 acres of vineyards. This book is dedicated to
them. It is a journey trough a unique place resplendent
with character and charm, like the wine that is produced
here.
Salute!
Il TERRITORIO
In the
Piedmont
Barbaresco is one of the great red wines of Italy. Located
in the heart of the Piedmont Region and surrounded by an
incredible chain of mountains which define this area, its
beauty as well as its climate. The word Piedmont translates
to “foot of the mountain” and it accurately
describes this place, and like the wine this book
celebrates, has a personality that is strong and complex.
The
Langhe Hills
The hills of the Langhe stretch in the direction of the
Alps with panoramic vistas that are both intoxicating and
melancholy. For centuries this land only represented hard
work for the people who lived here. In only the last fifty
years this region has become famous around the world for
extraordinary products like wine, hazelnuts, truffles, and
cheese… and the beautiful views that define this
majestic landscape.
The
Tanaro River
The
Tanaro River winds its way from the Maritime Alps
north-east to join the River Po, along the way it defines
the northern border of the Albesi Langhe. While alluring,
this river plays a fundamental role in shaping the climate
in the region with summer breezes, or the mist that climbs
slowly up the hills when the weather turns cool.
The
Terrain
This
land is a vivid example of the geological eras that coursed
through this terrain. The calcium rich stone in the hills
mixed with the fertile alluvium soil carried forth by the
Tanaro River to create a perfect balance for grapes to
grow. It is this soil balance that allows the grape
Nebbiolo to fully express itself to become Barbaresco!
The
Mist
The
Italian word for mist is “nebbia” and the grape
is called Nebbiolo. Does this mean that the mist defines
the quality of the wine? Probably not, the sun and the soil
affect the grapes most, however, the personality of the
wine would not be the same without the light autumn mist
that brushes against the crest of the hills and settles
into the valley floors.
THE
NEBBIOLO GRAPE
Nebbiolo
is the “vitigno nobile” or noble variety of the
Piedmont Region. It is the first to break bud in the spring
and the last to be harvested in the fall and as a result it
claims the warmest sites and requires great care and
dedication throughout the year. The Nebbiolo grape, more
than any other variety, defines the true character of these
hills, bringing to the world an inimitable
wine.
THE
VINEYARDS
Every
hill has a name, and every curve in the road introduces a
new microcosm that shows the bond between the land, the
vineyards and the people who work to create these world
famous wines. These vineyards are the essence of the wine
Barbaresco; they are a testament to the character and
diversity of this wine and
how it is influenced
by every shift in the terrain.
VILLAGES
Barbaresco,
Neive, Tresco, San Rocco Seno d’Elvio
These
villages are the “zona d’origine” of the
Barbaresco wine-growing region. They are bonded by their
history, by their soil and their beauty. Each town is
similar yet uniquely distinct. Throughout history each
village has remained proudly independent, yet strongly
united through their most precious creation. The wine
Barbaresco!
BARBARESCO
Barbaresco is not only the village that gives the name to
the wine, it is also the heart of the Barbaresco
wine-growing region. This is the place where Barbaresco was
born, and the history of the region is still maintained.
Through
the ages the medieval tower has stood tall over the valley
above the Tanaro River and it still remains a symbol of the
community and a landmark for the region.
NEIVE
Neive is
one of the most beautiful villages in the entire Piedmont
Region. Multiple churches, winding streets, and splendid
baroque architecture draws visitors throughout the year.
Neive adopted the moniker “land of four wines”
because they have excellent growing conditions for the four
famous grapes of the region: Nebbiolo, Moscato, Dolcetto
and Barbera.
TREISO
Treiso has the highest elevation of these villages and as
such has the coolest temperatures as well as incredible
views of the Alps, which has made it an attractive place to
live since the Roman times. Treiso also has a reputation
for producing wonderful quality Dolcetto d’Alba.
SAN ROCCO SENO D’ELVIO
Today
San Rocco Seno d’Elvio is a suburb of the town of
Alba, however, at one time it was a part of the community
of Barbaresco. It remains bonded with the Barbaresco
wine-growing region because of its terrain and the growing
conditions, which deliver the flavors of Barbaresco wine.
THE
PEOPLE
The towns are alive with activity, the land and the vines
are carefully tended day after day throughout the year, and
the wine that is this regions most proud accomplishment is
a reflection of the people who live here and their daily
routine. They proudly offer the spirit and essence of their
life’s work and their history in every glass of
Barbaresco poured.
MAPS
The Barbaresco appellation consists of four small villages
in the section of the Piedmont region called the Langhe.
Uniquely situated only a one-hour drive south from the city
of Turin (Torino) and an equal distance to the
Mediterranean and the Western Alps. Approximately 2,500
acres of Nebbiolo grapes are grown here which produce just
over three million bottles of Barbaresco. The Barbaresco
wine-growing region is made up of a multitude of hills,
ridges and slopes, each with a unique name, some have been
renowned for centuries while others have acquired more
recent fame. In the following pages you will find maps of
the region and the villages and the list of the
“indicazioni geografiche” (single vineyards) as
defined by the Community of Barbaresco.