Giacinto Albarello
In the center of the town of Barbaresco, Italy is the trattoria Antica Torre. They are known for their wonderful food, but especially their tajarin. A hand rolled and hand cut pasta that is so light it defies comprehension. The first time I was introduced to Antica Torre was with Aldo Vacca THE man to know in Barbaresco. He told us that Cinto, the chef, made the best pasta in all of Italy. Not an uncommon claim in Italy, but in this case it happens to be true. When we arrived at the restaurant we were introduced to Cinto in his kitchen. He was an unassuming man not looking the part deserving such accolades dressed only in a casual shirt and apron tied around his waist.
Still groggy from the flight from the States, we said yes to whatever Aldo suggested, in fact we still do, but that’s another story. From the kitchen they brought a large platter of pasta coated with a light sauce. They served the pasta to each person individually, twirling it around two forks gently placing a mound of noodles on each person’s plate perfectly. It resembled a bouffant bees-nest style hairdo. It is a technique that I still try to master to this day and only occasionally succeed. The tajarin was unlike any other pasta I had ever eaten, and trust me, I have eaten more than my share of pasta in both Italy and the U.S. When they came back to ask if we wanted more we all eyeballed the remaining pasta in the platter each of us wanting the entire amount for ourselves, we gratefully took as much as we could get.
In the years since that first visit we have had many memorable meals at Antica Torre, the restaurant has moved up the street to it’s beautiful new location. Cinto has received many chefs from America who come to his kitchen looking for the secret to his perfect pasta and the rest of his wonderful culinary repertoire. He teaches them anything they want to know and seems slightly bemused by all of the attention.
Cinto died on Thursday June 30, 2005 of cancer. Thankfully, he lived much longer than the doctors thought he would. I was feeling embarrassed that my first description of this gentile and sweet man was surrounding his food until the funeral when the priest from Barbaresco spoke, he spoke of how Cinto used his food and his restaurant to create community with the people who came there. He also said that in the last days in the hospital Cinto was kneading dough and tossing the pasta with flour in his sleep.
Cinto was a proud member of the Alpini, a unique branch of Italian service that is restricted to proven athletes and outdoorsmen. Recently, and shortly after a second operation, he prepared a meal including tajarin for over 60 people at a reunion of retired Alipini’s. Very few people even knew he was ill.
Cinto is well known and highly regarded by chefs, restaurateurs and wine makers as well as his customers from throughout the Piedmonte region and the world, many of whom call him a dear friend. His family still operates 2 restaurants that serve some of the best food you can eat – anywhere.
He will be missed